We Are Many, We Are One. Indonesia.

Semeru 30 May - 2 June 2013

A week and a half ago, I had the amazing opportunity to hike Semeru, Java's tallest mountain, at 3676 m. It was an incredible and long journey! This is an account of the adventure. 

Like every experience I've had in Indonesia, there's a lesson to be learned - a new thing to take hold of and keep after I leave this beautiful place. "We are many, we are one". This TV show motto (Ring of Fire Adventures) aptly describes our trip, where I learned even more the value of community, friendship, and sharing. I am so blessed to be living in a place where I can experience this over and over again! These values are embodied in the Javanese culture. And, from my experience, often missed in Western cultures. Furthermore, I believe they should be embodied by the church. Sometimes I wonder, as believers, are we missing something foundational that the early church displayed so well...? (e.g. Acts 4:32-35). Anyway, I digress... I'm still recovering from a cold, so my thoughts are jumbled! Here's Semeru. 

Two friends from GKMI Jogja took me on this trip. I am so thankful for what they've done since I've been in Jogja, I've had a lot of great experiences! It's not easy to find motivated hikers at church, so off the three of us went! After a 7 hour train ride to Malang (East Java), we stopped at the "base camp" home of Pak R. His family daily takes in hikers before and after their visit to Semeru/Bromo, offering food, tea, bathing, and room to rest. He took us up to the trail-head in one of his trucks. This is still one of my favourite modes of transportation in the villages here.  Ayo! 

We passed Mt. Bromo on the way, a famous active volcano. Also passed the first of many "plains" in the area, which reminded me so much of BC! 

At the trail-head, 1:00 pm Friday afternoon. As we say in Austria (and subsequently in Indonesia, after I taught my friends): Berg heil! After filling out administration forms and experiencing a bit of the bureaucracy that increasingly surrounds environmental tourism, we were ready to hike from Ranu Pane! Love the welcome signs. 

We made it to Ranu Kumbolo, at 2400 m, after trekking through the misty forest. Caught a bit of rain on the way up, but this was the only time all weekend! This lake is beautiful and one of the coldest spots on the mountain. We stopped for a quick break and then trekked on to Kalimati, our first camping spot at 2700 m.

After a meal  of noodles and ketupat, prepared rice wrapped in dried leaves in which we had TONS, time or a quick nap before the summit attack at midnight! This was perhaps the hardest section of hiking I've ever done. It was mostly sand and rocks and the summit was elusive; every time we looked up in the dark and thought the summit was there, another hour was added to our struggle. We passed many groups of hikers, all in the same condition. Every time I sat down and closed my eyes, I almost fell asleep!

But, the end result was worth it! Made it to the summit Mahameru right in time for sunrise and wow what a view!! We could see the south sea, some islands, mountains in the distance, the city of Malang, Mt. Bromo, and just stretches of land every direction. So. Cool.

As fellow hikers and victors in the struggle, we posed with new friends at the summit. What a great feeling! Especially to pose with that red and white. 

Of course, Semeru is still a very active volcano. Spurting smoke every couple of minutes, there's always a big one. This was it! Before 9:00 am, the winds are blowing to the south, taking the smoke away from the summit. But after that, north winds come and blow the smoke from the crater to the summit. This dangerous smoke has killed numerous hikers, so everyone is *strongly* advised to descend beforehand. 

After a chocolate break on top, time to leave. Below is what we struggled up to the summit. Can you imagine? But on the way down, it was all sand-surfing! Woohoo! A five hour ascent turned into a 1.5 hour descent.

Rest-time at Kalimati. It is here that we found and picked edelweiss too, so now I have proof that it does grow outside the Alps!  

On the way down from Kalimati to Ranu Kumbolo, our second camping spot, we stopped to let a group of 40 Malaysian/Thai hikers pass. They had 30 hired porters - something that I saw for the first time and was amazed! These men carry significant weights up on their shoulders - props to them all! 

It was here, Cemoro Kandang, that we met a great group of hikers from Semarang, Surabaya, Banyuwangi and Jakarta. After initial conversation and figuring out who the foreigner was, decided to stick together. I had a great time listening to the conversation around me, trying to follow, learning Javanese, and speaking up when I could! 

Passed through a beautiful field of unidentifiable purple flowers, called Oro Oro Ombo.

Reflecting...

Made it to Ranu Kumbolo on Saturday afternoon, and set up camp and dinner. Time to take it easy for a bit after the strenuous hiking! We were camped beside one of the guys' friends that they had met at Sumbing mountain a few months ago. We ran into him on the first day here. He joined us for conversation (by us I mean the guys... I was tired and could't really follow) and we shared food. He also borrowed our little stove. Everything belongs to everyone - isn't it great? Another group beside us borrowed the cookstove, thus offering us their leftover macaroni. 

After a great sleep (I had a down sleeping bag - best idea ever!!), got up to watch the sunrise over the lake. In the middle of the dry season (July-August), the sun rises directly in the middle of the two hills and also, there are ice crystals in the morning! We missed these two things, but it was still beautiful. 

And as soon as the sun comes up, it's hot! The guys took a swim before we headed down, and it felt so much like a summer day on the shores of a lake in Canada. 

On the way down, we took a different route through Jalur Ayek Ayek, a unique grassy plain. So cool! we were traveling with our friends from the day before, so there were a lot of laughs and new Javanese words to learn. Also ran into a business student from Libya, studying in Malang! 

There was another surprise ascent... 

With one of our friends from Banyuwangi. The joke is that there are two foreigners here; most people think my friend (L) is from Korea. How surprised they are when he responds in fluent Javanese! 

The last part of the trek is usually through the mountain villages and fields. I love it here! With a friendly "monggo", every villager sends us on our way. 

At the end. I am quite satisfied and spent, blessed and amazed! What a great adventure exploring a beautiful part of God's creation, as well as a wonderful community. I have felt so at home when I've been in the mountains here, and have enjoyed every conversation and interaction. While they are always initially difficult, I learn to laugh at my mistakes and lack of understanding and just play along with whatever's going on around me. The comradeship is amazing. We descended from Ranu Pane by Pak R.'s big truck again, this time cramming 15 of us weary hikers in the back. Took a rest (and much-appreciated mandi) at his house and then departed to the bus station. It was a strange feeling to say Goodbye to the other group of guys as they headed to Bromo for further adventures, and we went to Surabaya. It was like departing from friends, although we had only just met the day before! But we promised to visit each others' cities, visit Pak G's nasgor warung in Semarang, and add each other on Facebook. Good times!

We took a bus to Surabaya on Sunday night, had delicious soto lamongan there, and then took a loooooooooong bus ride to Jogja. What an adventure! Came home with stronger friendships, new friends, a new blister, pictures that left me speechless, and a new appreciation for the God-given gift of community. This was my last mountain in Indonesia (5 total) and it was perfect. Terima kasih pada teman-teman semuanya, yang membuat pengalaman ini LUAR BIASA! Sangat bersyukur :)
We are many, we are one. Indonesia.
How I'll miss it...
Lisi :)